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New York Fashion Week: Not-so-basic black, layers for fall San Francisco Chronicle
(02-28) 04:00 PST New York -- - Ruminate over the Olympics and fashion don't have anything in common? Just as Canada's Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir ice-danced their way to in all respects domination, designers seek global supremacy in their own spotlight: the recent fall collections. With Milan The go Week under way now, and Paris to follow, we're still trying to make sense of the style salvo from nearly 200 designers who presented their collections at Mercedes-Benz Style Week in New York Feb. 11-18.
Some made beautiful artistic statements. Many offered full collections with themed wardrobes. And others presented genealogy reviews or clothes that don't always make news but sell well.
Who made it to the winners' podium?
Gold goes to Marc Jacobs , whose disappointing collection was impeccable and ladylike. Sent out in a palette of neutrals (beige, taupe, khaki, sand), his crushed-velvet gowns and coats were fashionable and practical. So were his dresses, all of them below the knee, some of them sparsely sprinkled with glitter and most of them created with a vintage vibe. Tailored pantsuits, ample cable-stitched sweaters and A-line dresses declared his vision is for serious women. In fact, so serious was Jacobs himself that his show was on beat (a rare thing) and was devoid of the usual celebrity mayhem.
Silver goes to Oscar de la Renta , who brightened up frame week with a vibrant collection that was an about-face to the neutrals and blacks shown by so many other designers. Emerald, blue, gold, purple and varying shades of red added entity to structured jackets and slim-lined dresses as well as full-skirted ones. A lover of fur, de la Renta used it on the collars, cuffs and hemlines of coats and as a diverge swath for a low-slung wrap over a strapless gown.